Travelling Australia
with
Wayne & Pam BENTLEY

THE DAILY JOURNAL
Thursday 10th August 2006 to Saturday 12th August 2006

Thursday 10th August 2006
One of Bourke Caravan Park Swimming Pool
One of Bourke Caravan Park Swimming Pools
The grave site of Fred Hollows
The grave site of Fred Hollows
An engine from Way back
An engine from Way back

We woke to a cooler morning so we didn't move out of the caravan too early as we only had about 160 kilometres to travel to Bourke. Our preparation to leave was taken at a leisurely pace and it was around 9:20am before we drove out of the caravan park and started on the road to Bourke.

Although we were heading for Bourke, which is so well known for the saying 'out the back of Bourke', the Kidman Way surprised us as we found ourselves driving through well timbered country with plenty of grass growing between the trees. The two inches of rain they had in july obviously turns the country from dry red earth to good green pastures.

The drive itself was rather uneventful and we arrived at Bourke around 11:15am, however we continued through the town for another 8 kilometres until we came to the Kidman Camp and Caravan Park which backs (about 400 metres) onto the Darling River. On arrival there were no staff in the office, just a sign to say drive on in and select your site, so we did just that and found a prime site not far from all the absolutely spotless facilities, including two swimming pools in a very pleasant enclosure.

Once the caravan park office opened up we paid our site fees for two nights ( $49 ) and booked a spot at the Camp Fire Cookout for tonight at a cost of $10 per person, this is supposed to be well worth attending as the meal is provided and all you need to take is your chairs, eating utensils and drinks. There will be more on this tomorrow when we can report on our findings.

After 'One of Us' watched Geoff Janz cooking show on Satellite TV, we then drove back through Bourke to the Cemetery where we were able to follow the signposts to the grave of that amazing humanitarian, Fred Hollows. The people of Bourke are extremely proud of the fact that Fred chose their town to be laid to rest. The headstones are granite rock, one polished around the edges and the other carved in Aboriginal markings which seems quite appropriate for all the work Fred did for these people.

Next we went into town and down near the wharf where we were in time to see a very large old twin cylinder engine being run for visitors to view. This engine started life in the early 1900's in Sydney providing power for the city before it had a checkered life until recovered, restored and put on show in Bourke.

We then strolled onto the wharf and 'One of Us' became very excited as not only could she see the Darling River, there were pelicans swimming on it as well. After a number of photographs and climbing down the steps to the water at the bottom of the wharf, the 'Other One' instructed that it was essential the to visit the souvenir shop and after the purchase of Laraine Leyland's 'Food for the Road' book and a spoon rest with the name Bourke on it, we managed to get out of the shop and started off back toward the caravan.

On the way the mention of food in the book somehow caused the Patrol to deviate into the SPAR food shop where some additional salad vegetables to create some magnificent culinary creations in the near future...????

The evening shall be spent enjoying the Campfire cookout with poetry and yarns.

The Darling River flowing through Bourke
The Darling River flowing through Bourke


Pammy's Pelican on the Darling River
Pammy's Pelican on the Darling River


Friday 11th August 2006

A night with the poet of Kidman Camp
A night with the poet of Kidman Camp
The Poet of Kidman Camp in full flight
The Poet of Kidman Camp in full flight
The paddleboat MV Jandra
The paddleboat MV Jandra

Yesterday ended with the Campfire Cookout that consisted of sausages, patties, potatoes and mixed vegetables accompanied by some great recitations of well known poetry by the resident poet and Jack of so many other things around the camp. Our host for the night was Brian, who was able to recite many verses of our well known poets and whilst doing so, provided a great deal of animation to accompany the verse. With a warm camp fire burning and a few glasses of wine to keep us all warm, a great night was had by all who attended and those that didn't will never know what they missed out on. At $10 per head for the meal and the entertainment, this was a great night that we would highly recommend attendance to anyone passing this way whilst this event is still running.

This morning the sun rose to reveal a beautiful blue sky and although it was a little cool earlier, the day turned on the warmth that anyone would enjoy. We did see a little more of the morning as we were up and getting ready for a trip down the Darling River on the Paddle Boat Jandra.

At about 8.45am we headed off down to the MV Jandra which starts its journey from the banks of the Darling River about 400 metres behind the caravan park. On our arrival it appeared that the morning trip may be called off as there were only the two of us to board for the hour long paddle, however just before 9am there was an influx of people and we ended up with about 11 passengers and we were under paddle not long after the scheduled departure time. The trip down the river lasted about one hour and took us under the old road bridge and on closer to the town of Bourke before turning and returning to the starting point not far from the caravan park. There was commentary most of the way and a good number of birds, flora and fauna to view along the way. Some of the old redgum trees along the bank of the river were magnificent and Pammy kept getting excited each time she saw more pelicans on the river, they kept moving out of the way as the boat came near them, then they would settle in the water again a short distance away. This was another great experience and although it was not a steam driven boat, it was still a paddle boat and had been named after a paddle steamer that was originally built back in 1885. This is another recommended activity when passing this way.

Next, a couple of the staff members working at the caravan park recommended we have a look in one of the cabins that the park can provide to travelers who don't cart their home on their back. The door of one of them was left open for us and we were able to walk in and have a good look at what turned out to be a rather magnificent (seem to be using that word a lot here) unit with all wooden trim, including rough natural timber beams, wooden floors, tables made from slabs of redgum trees, bed heads of natural timber finish and facilities that could match any motel unit anywhere. At $88 per night they are something to really appreciate and if passing through here without a caravan in tow, they would be my choice of accommodation in this area.

We then found out that the 'Poet of Kidman Camp' was also the horseman and was taking out his pair of Clydesdale horses and wagon so we decided we would take advantage of that opportunity and go along for the ride. This ride lasted for about an hour and a half and took us to the local airport which is named after the famous aviatrix Nancy Bird, then on through a vineyard to a gallery before returning to the caravan park. Along the way the passengers were offered the opportunity to take control of the reins and two or three did, then just as we were returning to the caravan park, whilst the 'Other One' walked out in front to take a photograph, 'Pammy found herself sitting in the front seat and before she knew it, she had the reins in her hands and she was the driver of these two beautiful clydesdales.

Having discussed many subjects along the way, after the wagon ride and a sandwich for lunch, we had a visit from 'The Poet of Kidman Camp' and his wife to look through our Momento photo album. They stayed for a while and we had a good chat about what we had been doing and where they came from and what they were doing in the area etc. They are a very nice couple and we enjoyed their company and the chat.

After this we drove into Bourke and made a visit to the National Bank to replenish some necessary supplies of cash before visiting the Visitors centre and picking up a key to allow us to visit Mount Oxley tomorrow where we intend to have lunch. Obviously we have decided to spend another night in Bourke and not move on until Sunday.

Tonight there is a different Campfire Cookout with another poet, but the price is still only $10 each and although we could do will an early night, we intend to visit this activity again.

The old bridge over the Darling River
The old bridge over the Darling River

Pammy in control - driving the horses
Pammy in control - driving the horses

Mighty Redgum Tree on the bank of the Darling
Mighty Redgum Tree on the bank of the Darling
The Darling River
The Darling River
A couple of oldies - and the horses
A couple of oldies - and the horses

Saturday 12th August 2006

Looking up at Mount Oxley
Looking up at Mount Oxley
One of the few hills new Mount Oxley
One of the few hills new Mount Oxley
Rocky ridge top on Mount Oxley
Rocky ridge top on Mount Oxley

Washing day this morning before we did anything else for the day. Whilst 'One of Us' organised the washing, picked a zucchini from the caravan park vegetable garden (grown for the patrons of the park to use) and made up some salads to take with us to Mount Oxley, the 'Other One' spent most of his time trying to clean up the printer heads of the Canon S820 printer that we carry with us and haven't used for quite a long time. This was almost successfully completed and the photographs ended up printing out with reasonable clarity in the end. I guess the moral to this story is that if you don't use it, you lose it!

Once we were organised, we left the caravan park at about 10:30am and drove into town to pick up some chilli sausages and steak from the local butcher and post a letter. While we were there we went into the local Retravision shop to see if we could get a cable to link the video camera to the laptop computer. We managed to get this cable, however it was more expensive than we expected because we also walked out with an 'Easy Cook' health Oven (dry roasting oven) that cost us an extra $299.

We then headed east out of town on the road to Brewarrina. About 28 km out that highway we turned off to the south and made our way in about seven km to a locked gate for which we had collected the key yesterday afternoon. Pammy took the key and after a bit of confusion as to which lock the key fitted, she fought with and subdued the gate into submission and managed to open it for the 'Other One' to drive the patrol through.

From the gate we continued along a track which led to the base of Mount Oxley, then we drove up a sealed track that had been cut into the side of a pretty steep side of the hill. Some areas had a drop off at the side of the track that would have seen any vehicle reach the bottom very quickly if it slid off the wrong side of the road. The further we climbed up the mountain, the view became better and better and it was easy to see why Telstra had chosen Mount Oxley to set up one of their communication towers.

Once on the top of Mount Oxley, we made our way around an unsealed track to the picnic area where there was a covered area with free gas BBQ's, wooden topped tables and chair benches, hot water system, washing up sink and a full flushing toilet. All this out the back of Bourke on top of a Mountain surrounded by flat plains. Our first task was to utilise these facilities so whilst 'One of Us' enjoyed the views and a taste or three of Omni Sparkling Wine straight from the bottle (as we didn't bring any glasses ) whilst the 'Other One' settled for a can of soft drink and cooked up a feast of sausages, steak and onions.

Once lunch had been devoured, we strolled around the top of the hill and took in the vast expanse of plains below this rock formation that any photographer would enjoy time to record for the future. Unfortunately the sun had moved to the west and made some views a little difficult to photograph in the best light. One amazing thing about the top of Mount Oxley is a number of small craters formed in some loose rock piles that it appears were created around the time of it's discovery by Europeans. Sturt reported in 1828 that he heard a loud explosion like a huge gun discharge, however there is no actual evidence at to what has caused these small rocky craters but it is believed it may have been 'gaseous explosions'. Who knows.. but it does create an interest and plenty of discussion.

We finally started our return trip from Mount Oxley at about 2:30pm and on the way across the top of the hill we stopped to watch a small kangaroo take time out from grazing to sit and watch us for a while before hopping on a little. On our return to Bourke we returned the key to the Mount Oxley gate then called in at the local IGA store to purchase a chicken to try out in our new oven. From here we called in to the local BP Service Station and filled up with fuel at 146.9 cents per litre and arrived back in the caravan park at about 3:35pm.

It was then time to settle down for the rest of the day and start making preparations for our move from Bourke tomorrow, on our way to Charleville. Our stay in Bourke has really been great and we have enjoyed so much about it, from the caravan park to the local people and all the things to see and do around here. It is a place we will recommend to anyone who is contemplating heading out into the New South Wales 'outback'. I guess we can now say "We've been out the back of Bourke".

Pammy enjoying the view from Mount Oxley
Pammy enjoying the omni?? view from Mt Oxley


Rather unique Camp Kidman Phone Box

Mount Oxley Picnic area
Mount Oxley Picnic area
Bourke is out there somewhere
Bourke is out there somewhere
You can see for miles from Mount Oxley
You can see for miles from Mount Oxley

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